Earth Ground
Most of us overlook the importance of hooking good earth grounds to
our antennas and our radios. Some think if lightning hits, its going
to do what it wants to do. Probably right! Lightning protection is
not why I am stressing the earth ground. Good earth grounds serve two
purposes. One they protect against lightning (by routing current to
the ground instead of our radios). Secondly, they discharge stray RF
energy. There are a few things this does for us. First, it makes our
receiver quieter (less static). Secondly it prevents RF from building up on the
station equipment and distorting our audio (So many CBers have this
problem!). Have you every heard someone who's audio would distort
when they would talk? The number one cause of this is strong RF
currents running on the radio chassis and mic (more power and the
problem gets worse!). Also grounding stray RF energy cuts down on
interference to TVs, Phones etc. Plus, if you are
using a vertical antenna (1/2,5/8 Wave) you can improve the
performance by lowering the angle of radiation by using ground rods
and radials running on the surface of the earth under your antenna.
This is a total must if you are co-phasing verticals.
So what constitutes a good ground? Well, it depends on a few things.
First, inspect the soil where you have your ground rods (or will you
will be putting them). If your soil is rocky or sandy, you better
buy a few ground rods and a bag of rock salt. Rocky and sandy soil
is a poor conductor and has a high resistance to ground.
If you soil is high in mineral or ash content (nice dark top soil
deep down for many feet) then you have a nice low resistance to
ground. There are two places where you will need to a make good
ground. One from the antenna, so the ground should be directly (or
as close as possible) underneath the antenna. Figure 1 shows where
to place the ground rods around your tower, but if you have your
antennas mounted on your roof, still run a wire to three ground rods
shaped like a triangle.

Figure 1 - Three ground rods located around the base of the
tower. The ground wire runs down the tower from the antenna, and
splits into three, and runs to each ground rod. Solder the wires to
the rods!
The other ground
should run from the back of your radio chassis. Actually, all the station
equipment should be grounded together with a heavy copper wire (coax
braid is good). This should run to a ground as short as possible,
preferable out the window to the ground directly. You must keep this
ground under 9ft long (102") or the effect of a long wire will
impede the RF from grounding. If you must have a longer ground wire
(really, try not to, this is important),
run a separate wire off the back of the radio (where the normal
ground is hooked) that is 102" inches long. just let the wire hang
to the floor and then run it across the floor (don't roll it up).
This is called a "counterpoise". You should have three ground rods
outside the window, shaped like a triangle like you have around your
tower.
If your
soil is rocky or sandy, drive your ground rods, pull them back out
and dump the rock salt into the holes where the ground rods go.
Then, fill the holes up with water to dilute the salt and let it
flow in the ground surrounding the rods. This will greatly improve
the conductivity of the earth. Remember to replenish the salt ever
year, it disapates into the ground over time. Ground rods should be copper about
6 - 8 feet long. You should have at least three ground rods, located
about 6 feet from each other. You will need at least 6 ground rods
in total, 3 for the antenna and the other 3 for the radio ground.
Solder the wires onto the ground rods (to prevent static ground
noise).
If the antenna you are using is a vertical, it would be
helpful to place "radials" off of one of the ground rods. You do
this by taking a shovel and driving the tip into the ground, rock it
back and forth opening up a V shape in the soil (no deeper than 1 inch).
Do this at least 8
directions from one of the ground rods (if possible). Radials should
be as longs as possible (36 feet is best). Drop the radial wire into
the channels you built with the shovel and stomp the channel shut
with your foot or the shovel to seal the wire into the ground (to
hold it down and so you do nail it with your lawn mower!). This is a great way to
improve the DX capability of the vertical! Figure 2 shows a view
looking straight down on the tower. You can see how the radials
should lay.

Figure 2 - Looking straight down on tower. You can see the
radials, but after you install them, they should be buried under the
ground about 1/2 inch (no more than 1 inch deep). This will improve
the radiation pattern of the vertical antenna. If you are not using
a vertical antenna, just go with the three ground rods. Make sure
they are about six feet away from each other.
The connection to your
antennas should be a good one with the largest practical conductor
size. You should hook the ground close to or on the shield of the
coax (on the collar of the PL-259). Connect the ground wire to the
chassis of you radio, hooking it firmly to metal. If the connection
is loose, it will cause more static noise on your receiver!
Do not expect to notice a
huge difference (or a immediately detectable difference) from doing
this. But remember, when you are trying to talk to a DX station with
the faintest signal, even that slight bit means hearing or not
hearing that DX station.