Radio Waves
Radio energy waves are waves of energy that are similar to light waves. In fact signals (radio waves) travel through the air at
the speed of light. To understand how an antenna works you must first have a basic idea of the makeup of a radio wave. A radio
wave can be visualized as a sine wave, shown in figure 1. The distance a wave travels to complete one cycle is known as the
wavelength of the signal. A CB signal completes a cycle as it travels through the air at roughly 36 feet. For every 36
feet the wave travels it has completed one cycle. Since we have defined wavelength as the distance a wave travels to complete
one cycle, we now know that one wavelength on CB frequency is approximately 36 feet. So, radio waves are similar to light?
What is the wavelength of visible light in feet? Smaller than two
inches!
Figure 2 show the relationship of CB frequencies to other bands.

Figure 1 - A good way to visualize a signal as it travels
through the air. We can now visualize an actual
distance that a wave must travel to cycle. This distance
is around 36 feet. If you convert 36 feet to meters you
get approximately 11
Meters. This is why the CB band is sometimes called 11 Meters!

Figure 2 - A chart to show the relationship between the CB band
and others. On the left the chart starts out with power line
frequencies (60 Hz), AM Broadcast (1MHz), the CB band (27MHz) and
goes all the way up through TV,FM Radio, Cellular Phone, Microwave to
visible light frequencies. Lower frequencies have long wavelengths
and high frequencies have short wavelengths.
How Antennas Work In General
When your transmitter puts a current (Radio Frequency (RF) energy) into an antenna, your antenna responds by producing a
magnetic field surrounding the antenna (this is the signal). When
this magnetic wave strikes another antenna (the receiving station
antenna), it induces a current on the receiving antenna surface (that current is then converted by the receiving stations receiver
to sound).
The length of the antenna structure plays an important role.
The magnetic field that your antenna puts out will produce an electric current on any metal surface that it strikes, however if the
metal that the signal strikes has a length relation to itself the induced current will be much stronger on the object. We stated
before that as a CB signal travels through the air, it completes a
cycle in approximately 36 feet. For instance, if the object that the magnetic
wave strikes is 18 feet long (1/2 wave length), 9 feet long (1/4 wavelength) or 36 feet long (1 full wavelength), then
the induced current will be much higher than if the signal struck a metal object that was not some appreciable fraction of the
wavelength of the signal. If you have ever heard people say they want to "tune" their antenna, they usually mean make it have
a length relation to frequency they are trying to receive.
This has a special name, it as known as antenna resonance. Every
antenna has at least one exact resonance point.
Antenna resonance is the frequency (in MHz) where the antenna is in a state
of electrical balance, which is determined by the length of the
antenna (every antenna has an exact frequency it is resonant on).
To use some numbers to demonstrate what we are explaining here, let us look at a very simple formula. You can calculate the
distance of a wavelength in freespace for any frequency using this formula:
One Wavelength, in feet = 984 / Frequency in Megahertz (MHz)
Lets look at an example:
CB Channel 40 uses the frequency 27.405MHz.
One Wavelength for 27.405, 35.906 Feet = 984 / 27.405
So we want to make a antenna that is resonant on channel 40 and
not too large in size. Lets cut a straight piece of aluminum rod
to be 1/2 a wavelength long. One Wavelength for 27.405 is 35.906
feet (from the formula above), and we want 1/2 of that, or
17.593. So, we cut our piece of aluminum rod to 17.593 and we
have made an antenna that resonates on 27.405 (or close to that).
This piece of rod should pick up (receive) on channel 40
(27.405Mhz) well.
Ok, now lets look the most basic antenna most CBers are familiar with, the 102" whip, also known as the 1/4 wave whip. Why is it known as the 1/4 wave whip? As we can see if we get out our
calculator, 102 inches is approximately 1/4 of 35.906 feet (1
wavelength). This antenna should also perform well on the CB band
because its length relates to that 36 foot wavelength signal we are
trying to receive!
To further simplify things, we have been speaking strictly about receiving - but these same principles apply to
transmitting. Our antenna also transmits a strong signal if the antenna we are transmitting through is resonant on the frequency on
which we are transmitting.
Tech Tip
Use a device called a Grid Dip Oscillator to determine the resonance frequency of an antenna.
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This brings us to our next topic - Bandwidth. Most of us use multiple frequencies when we use out radios. So, does this mean
our antenna only works good at one frequency, the resonance frequency? No! Our antennas actually perform well over a range
of frequencies. Most commercial CB antennas are designed to operate well over the 40 channels (that is a frequency range from
26.965 - 27.405 MHz). So, if you use your radio on all those frequencies it would be best to make it resonant in the middle around
channel 20 or so (27.205 MHz). If you talk only on a certain channel then set it up for the frequency that you use most. The term that
is important here is bandwidth or how much band your antenna works well over. For example if your antenna works well over
the 40 channels then your bandwidth is 27.405 - 26.965, or .44 One method of judging how well (efficiently) your antenna is
working is by measuring SWR.
SWR
To understand SWR or Standing Wave Ratio, we must first understand a few other
properties all antennas have. You may have heard the terms radiation resistance, impedance, input impedance, feedpoint
impedance. These terms are all referring to the same property of an antenna. When we think of the term resistance we usually
think of some type of force that acts (or impedes). Do not confuse DC resistance with with radiation resistance. This is a totally
different concept. You can not measure your antenna's impedance by using a Ohm meter on it! Impedance in antenna terms
refers to the ratio of the voltage to current (both are present on
an antenna) at any particular place on an antenna. This ratio of
voltage to current is different on different
parts of the antenna - which means that the Impedance is different
on different spots on the antenna if you could pick any spot and measure it.
In formula terms:
Impedance of antenna = Voltage Field / Current field flowing within antenna.
Tech Tip
You can measure the feedpoint impedance of an antenna by
using a device known as a Noise Bridge.
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This is great, but how does this relate to SWR? As you may or may
not be aware of, most antennas are usually designed (and intended) to
have an impedance at their feedpoint of 50 ohms. CB radios that are sold have antenna jacks on them that require they be
hooked up to a 50 Ohm load (load - usually your antenna). This is why we use a 50 Ohm line (usually coax cable) to connect
to the antenna. If we have an antenna not properly tuned close to 50 ohms or we used 75 ohm coax instead of 50 ohm coax a
mismatch condition occurs. Basic laws of electronics dictate that if
these impedance's (antenna jack, coax and antenna impedance) do not match then maximum power is not
transferred. There are all kinds of situations that could cause a mismatch beside what I gave as an example. Smashed coax, bad
connections, incorrect antenna assembly, mistuned antenna (incorrect
antenna length) and objects too close to antenna are some other common causes.
What happens if there
is a mismatch? At this point, lets just say that the antenna isn't tuned right, at the connection of the coax to the antenna, part (or
all) of the wave is reflected back down the line. The amount of the wave reflected back depends how bad the mismatch is. The
combination of the original wave traveling down the coax (towards the antenna or opposite during receive) and the reflecting
wave is called a standing wave. The ratio of the two above describe waves is known as the Standing Wave Ratio (aka SWR).
Generally you want a low SWR, preferably less than 2:1. In some mobile installation note that it is not possible to get the ratio
lower than this without using a special matching device. This is because the impedance of most mobile antennas are lower than
50 ohms. In general, an SWR of 1:5 is fine! This is an area of battle for most antenna experts. Some strive to achieve a 1:1 ratio
that indicates a maximum power transfer through their antenna system.
Tech Tip
You can use a device known as a SWR bridge to read the SWR of your antenna system. Most high end radios come equipped
with one. If your radio does not have one, they are inexpensive and fit in line
on the coax
between your radio and the antenna
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Back To Bandwidth
Now how can you use SWR to tell how broadbanded your antenna is? You can plot your SWR reading
similar to the one in figure 3. Generally for base antenna
use, a SWR over 2:1 indicates that the antenna is no longer
performing efficiently - so the amount of band you can cover while
keeping a SWR under 2:1 is considered your antennas bandwidth. You
should center your lowest SWR reading on the channel you use most, or around channel 20 if you use them
all. A few factors determine how broadbanded an antenna is. One of the main factors that I always keep in mind is conductor
size of the antenna. For instance, if you made an antenna from wire, it would be less broadbanded than if you made it from
larger tubing. The outside diameter is the primary concern, RF
energy (on 11 Meters) travels on the "skin" or outside of the wire
only. Another advantage to using larger conductor size on an antenna is it increase the amount of power it can handle
safely (how many watts of transmit power it can handle).
Larger
sized elements (larger tubing or wire) does not provide more
gain. This is antenna manufacture propaganda and is totally false...thicker elements only serve to widen
antenna bandwidth and up the power handling capability of an antenna
system.

Figure 3 - This is a way to chart your antenna's SWR.
Make a graph similar to this. Then make a reading on channel 1, and
record it. Do it for each of the the channels. This is a good method
to look at your antennas bandwidth. The graph shows to sample
readings that you could expect from a 4 element beam, and a 5/8
Wave antenna.
The 1/2 Wavelength Dipole Antenna
When the first radio experimenters were first
trying out their systems, they would just hook their transmitters up to long, high pieces of wire. It was later discovered that
relating antenna length to frequency which one was transmitting and receiving on resulted in an antenna that worked many
many times better than random pieces of metal. One of the first
resonant antennas discovered was the 1/2 Wave dipole. The basic 1/2
Wave dipole
is pictured in figure 4. If you wanted to make a dipole antenna to use on the 11 Meter band (CB), you would just make each leg
a 1/4 Wavelength, right? Almost! Notice above how, I always spoke of
terms of the Wavelength if it was traveling through the air. In
other mediums (wires, earth (CB waves do not penetrate the ground
far), coax) the wave travels slower than if it was traveling through
the air. However the wave still
completes its cycle in the same amount of time, but it didn't travel as far to do so. In other words the wavelength of a signal is
shorter when traveling through wire, coax and your antenna. This is not a major concern, just be aware that is why the following
formula is readjusted.
1/2 Wavelength, in feet = 468 / Frequency, in MHz.
For Channel 40 (27.405MHz) 17.077 = 468 / 27.405
Each Leg of the dipole would be a 1/4 wave or 17.077 / 2 = 8.386
Notice, above in the air a 1/2 wavelength would be
492 (1/2 of 984), but since the signal is traveling through wire instead of
through the air, we must adjust our formula for calculating
1 wavelength (of a wave traveling through #12 Copper wire,
not the plain old air). We are
going to use this antenna to demonstrate a few other properties antennas have. First, lets examine the impedance of this
antenna. If you place the connections in the middle you actually end
up with a feedpoint impedance around 70 ohms at its
resonance frequency. So as you can see, using this antenna, you are
already looking at a SWR no lower than 1:3:1 (because of the
mismatch of mating 50 Ohm Coax to a 75 Ohm antenna).
Bandwidth of this antenna is largely dependent on how large the wire or tubing's outside diameter is. Lets introduce a new
important antenna property, its radiation pattern (also known as polar plot or near field pattern)

Figure 4 - The 1/2 Wavelength dipole antenna.
Radiation Pattern
Figure 5
shows the radiation pattern of a dipole antenna as if we were up in the sky looking directly down on the antenna from above.
A radiation pattern is a visual representation of how an
antenna concentrates (distribute is another way of saying it) its
signal. The plot of the 1/2 wave Dipole (sometimes called the polar plot) is shaped like a figure
8 pattern. This antenna actually has gain, that is, signals
coming from the front and rear are stronger than signals coming
in off the ends.

Figure 5 - Radiation pattern for a 1/2 wave dipole antenna.
Gain - Often misunderstood by radio operators!
Antenna gain is used to indicate the increase in power of
one antenna (when transmiting or receiving) as compared
to another antenna. Gain is actually a ratio of power levels
and is stated in decibels, often abbreviated "db". So how do
we use this number? Keep in mind I said "used to indicate the increase in power of
one antenna as compared to another antenna.". So, how much
gain does your antenna have compared to say, an actual
coat hanger? Probably a lot! We know that a coat hanger could
not be much of an antenna. But when using db gain to rate an
antenna you must know what the reference antenna is!
It is important
to note that antennas are passive, they do not "amplify" signals
(or
effect transmitted audio levels!),
they merely re-distribute the power that they get to achieve gain.
They have no effect on the "modulation" or audio quality of your
radio! There are a few antenna manufactures that claim things
like their beams, "have the best modulation". This is plain silly,
over imaginative advertising.
Now, knowing something about the dipole (one of the most basic
antennas) we can use it to compare antennas. If someone said,
it has "6db over a dipole" or "6db, reference antenna is a dipole",
it would have meaning! Lets look at two radiation patterns at the
same time, to see how one antenna achieves gain. It will become
obvious how it works once you see it, check out figure 6.

Figure 6 - How antennas achieve gain. You can see that the dipole
antenna concentrates it signal, making it stronger in two
directions. The vertical on the other hand, spreads the signal
out evenly, resulting in a weaker signal, but with even
coverage. The increased range comes from the dipole having gain
over the vertical! The dipole uses energy off its sides and
puts it in the two main lobes (the two parts of the "figure 8"
pattern) You can see how gain translates into better signal range,
by looking at the "increased range" marking on the diagram.
There is another "antenna" that people use
give good honest gain figures over. It is known as the
isotropic radiator, an antenna that exists only in theory.
If we visualize the radiation pattern in 3D, we can see
this antenna is radiating equally well in every direction.
It is even transmitting straight down, straight up....all
with the same intensity. You could picture it like a sphere (a
perfectly round ball), the signal emits from the antenna (which
would be at located at the exact inside center of the sphere)
equally well in all directions. On planet earth however, this is
not possible!
The effect of the ground and other object alter the
pattern of antennas on earth, and even if we designed an antenna
to radiate like this, it would never work unless we took it out to
space where there would be no objects (like the ground for instance) to interfere with it.
Since it does not favor any particular direction, an isotropic
radiator has a gain of Zero (0db).
So then, even our lowly dipole has gain over an isotropic radiator.
How much you ask? Better sources say that a dipole has 2.1 db
gain over an isotropic radiator. Then, if I tell you I have
a antenna that has 6db gain over a isotropic radiator then,
you know also that it has 3.9db over a dipole (6 - 2.1).
Great! So, how can I use this term gain? I have read many
discussions on gain. The rule of thumb is that for every
3db of improvement you add to your antenna, it results in
an effect that is noticeable to receiving stations (when
transmitting, this goes for receive too). Any db less than 3 indicates
an improvement that not appreciable (really detectable). Do not
discount gain improvements under 3db...sometimes .5 of a db means hearing or
not hearing a station!
Lets look at an example, say your current antenna
has 9db of gain over a dipole. You really want to get a new antenna
that is advertising 12 db over and isotropic. Really, your not
going to see an improvement because we know that the advertised
antenna really has a gain of 9.9db (12 - 2.1) compared to a dipole.
Therefore,
an improvement of .9db for the new antenna! Not a worthwhile
gain especially if the new antenna is costly! A word to the
wise...do not use advertised gain figures, instead consult this
page or an antenna book to see what type of antenna design it
classifies as and really see how much gain it has.
So, when you go to examine gain figures, manufactures should be
stating a reference antenna. Usally if the gain figure is over a
dipole you will see "dBd" for gain over dipole and
"dBi" for gain over an isotropic. In all honestly, use all
manufactures gain figures with care. Its better to figure out the
antenna type (what specific design they are using), then consult
this website or an antenna handbook to find out the real gain of
the antenna. Gain figures today are so over inflated they are
practically useless!
As another point, doubling your power (how many watts you use)
results in improvements
of 3db! We are not comparing antennas here, but this
3db is an improvement compared to our original signal running
half the wattage. So, why bother with big antennas? Well, you
might be transmitting further, but your receive range is unchanged!
You could actually "out talk your ears", meaning people can hear you
but you can not hear them! High gain antennas improve both transmitt
and receive! You can't talk to people you can't hear!
An example, if you are running 20 watts, you would need to jump
up to 40 watts for anyone to hear any difference (a 3db improvement) compared to
when you were using 20 watts. So as you can see, once
you are running higher wattage (over 100 watts), you must
make large increases for other stations to notice a difference.
Not only is this a bad idea because it gets expensive,
it is not necessary when using a good antenna! How is this
possible? Well, if you are using 500 watts and you would like
to get a 1000 watts amplifier, you could alternatively use
an antenna that has 3db more gain than your current antenna
and achieve the exact same effect, a signal that is louder
to the receiving station!
As a precaution, I am going to cover most types of commercial
CB antennas, and even if i do not, you will be able to pick
out its type and figure out its gain. Unfortunately antenna
technology on the HF bands (where 11 meters is located)
has not improved all that much over the
years. Antennas are constructed better today and optimized,
but many of the antennas used in the 1970s are still the best!
Tech Tip
You can measure the radiation pattern of your antenna by using a device known
as a Field Strength Meter.
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Polarization
The last fundamental theory we must understand is polarization.
Do not be scared off, this theory was NOT saved till last
because it was more difficult to understand! It is just as easy
as any of the other concepts! A radio wave is actually made
of up two fields, one electric and one magnetic. These
two field are perpendicular to each other, shown in figure 7.
The sum of the two fields is called the electro-magnetic field.
Energy is transferring back and forth from one field to the
other - This is what is known as "oscillation".
We are interested in one field primarily here - the electric field.
Its position and direction with reference to the earths
surface (the ground) determines wave polarization. Below, are two
figures you can click on for an animated demostration.
Do not think these animations are an actually representation of a signal,
they are to merely demostrate how the electric field is parallel
to the radiating elements.
Horizontal polarization - The electric field is parallel
to the ground.
Click here for a visual
demonstration
of a horizontally polarized wave.
Vertical polarization - The electric field is perpendicular
to the ground.
Click here for a visual demonstration
of a vertically polarized wave.
In general, the electric field is the same plane as the
antenna's element (antenna element is that actually metal
part of the antenna that is doing the radiating). So if the
antenna is vertical, then the polarization is vertical.
The horizontal dipole in figure 3 is horizontally polarized.
In figure 8, this is a vertical arrangement for a dipole,
and its polarization is consequently vertical. It is
important to note that the 1/2 wave dipole in a vertical position
has a different radiation pattern (and consequently different
gain over an isotropic) than the 1/2 wave dipole in the
horizontal position. When most people talk about a dipole,
they usually mean a 1/2 wave dipole in the horizontal position.

Figure 7 - Makeup of an Electro-Magnetic Field
Waves do not have to be either horizontal or vertical.
This is merely an arbitrary setup. Antennas are arranged
like this so that others can orient their antennas in
a similar matter. These terms horizontal and vertical
are in reference to the earths surface, take away
the ground, say go into outer space and these
terms would have no meaning! This is why we arrange
our antennas for either a horizontal or vertical polarization
though.
For instance, if the receiving antenna
is receiving a signal that does not have the same polarization
of itself, then the signal is reduced about 20db (almost 7 times) compared to
if the signal had the same polarization as the receiving
antenna.
Some operators turn their beams at a 45 degree angle trying
to achieve an in between polarization. This is just an old
trick, that sometimes works out good.
The thing is, as our signals travel they usually reflect off
of objects, and the field can change polarization! So your signal
may end up loud and clear to another station even if you are not
using the same polarization as each other because the signal
may be bouncing off some object (a water tower for example) that
might be flipping the polarization before it gets to the other
station!
More people choose horizontal polarization for DXing because
receiving using horizontal polarization is generally more
quiet. This is because most man made noises (interference) are vertically
polarized. There is no proof that horizontal waves are
better for "skip" signals.
There is one special polarization known as Circular polarization.
It should be of special interest to antenna experimenters!
As the was travels it actually spins, not maintaining a set
polarization but covering every possible angle in-between.
This is good because it helps reduces signal fade (QSB)
and flutter during DX contacts. It can either be
right handed or left handed circular polarization depending
on which way its spinning (think of it spinning clockwise
or counter-clockwise as it leaves the antenna)
I will detail how
to make your beam radiate circular polarization under "Performance
Tips" - only for beams capable of both vertical and horizontal
polarization.
Click here for a visual demonstation
of a Circularly polarized wave.

Figure 8 - The dipole in a vertical configuration.
In conclusion
We have covered a lot of antenna theory here. I arranged it to
flow as logically as possible. I have also simplified several issues, so
that you could get the needed ideas down quick.
It might be necessary to go back and re-read this section to
thoroughly understand it. If you feel like there is a section
that is confusing, or just plain makes no sense, email me -
that's what its for. If what you
read was really interesting to you and you want to know more,
there are several books you can read that are great! Antennas
are like cars, some folks want to have the best (me included).
It pays to learn all the antenna principles! These books are
essential readings! Check out my bibliography section on the
home page too (hey, don't think I just made this all up!)
The ARRL Antenna Handbook, any edition - http://www.arrl.org/catalog/
"The Truth About CB Antennas", William Orr, W6SAI - http://www.amazon.com/